Fri
May 27 2011
11:38 am
By: R. Neal

My quest for the perfect homemade pizza crust took a turn into uncharted territory yesterday, with excellent results.

Earlier in the week I saw a pizza dough recipe in Southern Living (of all places) and the chef mentioned "Tipo 00 Italian style" flour. I'd never heard of that and was intrigued, so I googled and learned that the alleged world's best flour for pizza and pasta is made by the Molino Caputo company of Naples, Italy. (Here's an interesting article from a distributor who visited their factory.)

caputoflour.jpgMolino Caputo Tipo 00 Pizzeria Flour is specially milled from select grains with just the right amount of protein for pizza dough, according to Caputo. They make several special purpose flours, and a few for general purpose. Although there is some confusion on this point, some say Molino Caputo Chef's Farina Tipo 00 flour is basically the same thing and can be used for other purposes as well.

The "Tipo 00" ("type 00") designation refers to the milling, which is super-fine. The "Pizzeria Flour" is also known as "blue bag" flour, and "Chef's Farina" is also called "red bag," although they appear have other "red bag" flours for pasta, bread, gnocchi, etc.

Anyway, I doubted you'd be able to find any around here so I shopped around the internets. Several distributors sell commercial size 25kg bags, and I found a few that break it down into smaller sizes. I ordered a nine pound bag of the Caputo Pizzeria Flour from this guy. And here's what looks to be another good source.

(King Arthur apparently makes an "Italian Style" flour that is supposed to mimic the Caputo flour properties. I don't recall seeing it in stores but it is apparently widely available.)

In researching the flour, I also learned about San Marzano Tomatoes, which are supposed to be the very best for sauces and the only approved tomato for genuine, certified Pizza Napoletana (Neapolitan Pizza). They are grown in volcanic soil in the Campania region of Italy, which includes Salerno and Naples and the village of San Marzano.

napolitom.jpgGenuine cans of San Marzano tomatoes are supposed to have an EU "D.O.P." designation ("Denominazione di Origine Protetta," or protected designation of origin). Some also have a serial number and date of production certified by the Italian dept. of agriculture. There is apparently some controversy regarding San Marzono "style" tomatoes grown in Florida, California and elsewhere, and there are also widespread reports of fakes with counterfeit labels.

Anyway, I figured I should go ahead and order some of these in my quest for the perfect homemade pizza. The ones I got are Napoli brand, and have the D.O.P. logo, a couple of official looking seals with something written in Italian and a serial number and "Campagna Crop 2010." The other side of the label is in English and has the USDA Nutritional Info.

So yesterday my package of flour and five 28 oz. cans of tomatoes arrived from Connecticut, delivered to my door in a hail storm by our friendly Rastafarian mailman in a USPS flat-rate box. Shipping cost was about 50% of the total for the flour and tomatoes. Which is outrageous, but I'm on a mission. Some of the tomato cans were dented, which seems to be a frequent complaint.

Let me just say, the first time you open a can of San Marzano tomatoes, the smell is rich and earthy and unlike any canned tomato you've ever used. The resulting sauce is even better.

Of course I couldn't wait to try it all out. There are several variations on the dough recipe, but they are basically 4c of 00 flour, 1 and 1/2 cups of ice cold water, 1 and 1/2 teaspoon of salt, and either 1/2 or 1 and 1/2 teaspoons of active dry yeast depending on the recipe (I used 1 and 1/2). Some use olive oil (2 tbsp) and some don't. I made mine with the olive oil.

Technique appears more important than the exact ingredients, although the % of hydration is key. Mix all the dry ingredients in a stand mixer on low speed using a dough hook, slowly add the liquids, mix at low speed for about three minutes, then at higher speed (about 4 on a KitchenAid) for about five more. Some recipes say to let it rest for a few minutes between low and high speed mixing to absorb all the water. Then let it rise for 1 and 1/2 to two hours, punch it down, divide it, and let it rest some more for an hour or so.

The resulting crust was the best pizza crust I've ever made. I rushed it a little, and handled it a little rough. It needs to rest at various points as noted, but I was in a hurry, and should be shaped by hand instead of with a rolling pin like I used. The crust was still awesome, with almost the exact right crispiness, texture and bite for me, although maybe a little flatter, chewier and less airy than I wanted probably because of technique and handling. The flavor is the deal closer. Clean and perfect light bread taste, without any yeasty or wheaty or beery aftertaste.

And the tomatoes. Oh my God! This is what I've been missing. One thing I learned is that I have been overloading my sauce with herbs, seasoning, oil, parmesan and other stuff. This time I just mashed the canned tomatoes with a potato masher and added a little salt and pepper. I also cheated with a little garlic powder because I didn't have any fresh. Best pizza sauce ever.

Some fresh mozzarella and a little fresh grated parmesan and fresh basil on top, with some pepperonis and a light sprinkling of dried oregano (because that's how we like it) and into a 550 degree (hotter than usual) oven onto a baking stone that was pre-heated for about half an hour. (I still use the parchment paper to make the transfer, and it bakes fine.) Check it after five minutes.

Best homemade pizza ever!

Now I just need experiment with the dough a little and, more importantly, find a local source for the flour and tomatoes. Any suggestions?

Andy Axel's picture

I think you'd have to have an

I think you'd have to have an account at a restaurant supplier if you want this stuff locally. Sysco can probably source it but they typically deal with businesses and not home users; partially these specialty markets are walled off to prevent folks like you from white-anting their patrons' businesses. Which is why you pay a premium.

(A cousin of mine works for Sysco and that's the scoop he gave me, anyway.)

R. Neal's picture

I think you'd have to have an

I think you'd have to have an account at a restaurant supplier

That's what I figured. Guess I'm stuck with the internet sellers who break the flour down and repackage it. Which is a little suspect. No telling what you really get or what kind of conditions it's done in. Wonder if it's even legal.

I also wonder about the dented cans. Did they "fall off a truck" (literally or figuratively)? I guess they have to come a long way, though.

Andy Axel's picture

Unless you can find that King

Unless you can find that King Arthur double-ought at some upscale grocery or you can find some kind soul in the restaurant business to order it and resell it to you, I think you're sort of stuck.

(55 lb bags? Christ. That's truck freight.)

EricLykins's picture

Flour power

Just Ripe (513 Union Avenue, across from Pete’s Coffee Shop) has bread flour for $1.39/# that produces better results for a standard recipe french bread* than I've ever gotten from a 50# bag of Gold Medal high gluten flour. I've also gotten good results from Hudson Cream flour ("in short patent milling the wheat is ground more times and sifted with finer-meshed sieves than in standard milling," as they say on the bag) with Hodgson Mill vital wheat gluten added. Gold Medal Better for Bread seems to have the highest gluten of the standard off-the-shelf brands, but has a flavor I can only explain as "yellow."

*2c 105-115 degree water, 1T yeast, 1T salt, 1/4 cup oil per 4c flour, then add flour until dough feels cool but not sticky. Depending on your flour, practice with added gluten until you get an end product that doesn't taste yeast-y (not enough gluten) or flour-y (too much gluten makes you add too much flour, diluting the other ingredients. The amount of finishing flour needed also changes with the weather - Short the water measurement in London, increase in Arizona.)

That's the Appalachian version of french bread, anyway, and whatever variety of bread you are making starts as "french bread." Kaiser rolls are from fresh dough, pitas are from refrigerated day old dough, loaves, baguettes and sub rolls are a little more yesterday's dough (outside) to a little less fresh dough (inside). Make it a funny, flat shape and call it ciabatta, twist it up and call it challah. Dust it with sesame seeds and call it italian if you want; it's all french bread. If I remember correctly, if you refrigerate it for a day after the rising, balling, and second rising, it assumes the right texture for pizza dough tossing. If your dough (pizza or otherwise) is ever too elastic and snaps right back when you try to roll it or toss it, it's trying to tell you to leave it alone for a while and come back when it is ready.

And if you want to be totally French about it, they have laws that dictate, for example, that there's no oil in french bread:
4 cups bread flour
2 teaspoons salt
1 package (2 1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast
1 1/2 cups room temperature water
1 egg white
1 tablespoon water
and as per French Bread Law of 1993 you're no boulangerie if you try to sell bread that has not been mixed, kneaded, leavened, and baked on the premises.

Leave it (pun intended) to the French to ruin fun. You are free to not separate the yolk from the egg wash if you want, for example, and enjoy experimenting until you find a loaf that suits your style.

Min's picture

If you want to try the best pizza in East Tennessee...

...you need to take a little drive down Hwy. 411 to Vonore, TN, and try the pizza at Pizzeria Venti. Holy moly, Batman. The Pizza Max is the best thing I've ever eaten. And they have great salads, too. Here's a link:

(link...)

R. Neal's picture

Thanks for the tip. I'd seen

Thanks for the tip. I'd seen that place and wondered if it was any good. Looks like a pretty fancy place to be out in the middle of nowhere.

Min's picture

It is nice, for Vonore.

Not that Vonore isn't a nice community, but it's very, very small. The owners actually went to Italy and studied pizza making for a couple of months before they opened the restaurant.

Mello's picture

none red sauce family

We go the homemade alfredo sauce route with fresh spinach, fresh mushrooms, fresh basil and thin sliced tomatoes. The last few minutes of baking on the pizza stone is when I add the fresh mozzarella and garlic.

At one time I did use corn meal to ease moving the pizza from the paddle to the stone but I have long since change to using semolina flour instead of the meal.

And hey, that almond cheese works well when someone thinks they just have to have red sauce and string cheese.

JMichael's picture

Another place for the ingredients

You can source all these ingredients at (link...). Also, there are several different recipe instructionals on (link...). Good info told in a easy to understand way.

Joe328's picture

Holyland Market on Sutherland

Holyland Market on Sutherland Ave has several bread flours sold by the pound. Walter's wife is Italian and she may have a vendor to order it from or she may know how to mix the flours. If you ask they may add it to the inventory.

JMG's picture

I second Pizzeria Venti, I

I second Pizzeria Venti, I eat there a couple of times a month. Their soup is mighty good too. I could swear I've seen those canned tomatoes at Food City in the Italian section.

kendunn's picture

I 2nd the FornoBravo site.

I 2nd the FornoBravo site. Lots of great info there and wonderful free ebooks. I just built my own outdoor wood oven and went through some of the same things you are going through. If you are ever in Hazard, KY stop and have a look.

I am waiting on "6 IN 1 All Purpose Ground Tomoatoes" because someone that did some testing said it was the stuff, we will see. Cheap enough and shipping charges were like $1.50 for 6 cans.

I liked the Caputo flour, but Hudson Cream is great too. I just did some side by side and didn't notice any real difference in taste. I will be firing up the oven again this week to try the tomatoes. Oh, and my enzymes to make fresh Mozzarella will be here tomorrow!

I am going to test the flours again soon, I had a lot of company I was cooking for and maybe I didn't do the right comparison. Will check back with you. If I can tell a difference we may need to go in together and order a 55 pound bag!

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