Sun
Mar 25 2007
02:48 pm
By: Les Jones

On Saturday I got to try Backroom BBQ. It's at the old Lucille's space in Knoxville's Old City, and is part of the Patrick O'Sullivan's enterprise. I had the Pit Sampler, with a quarter rack of pork ribs, beef brisket, chicken, and pulled pork for the very fair price of $13.95 with two sides. I couldn't eat it all and wound up bringing the ribs home.

The beef brisket was very tasty. The chicken was boring, as BBQ chicken tends to be unless it's spicy. The pulled pork was very nicely smoked, and I enjoyed the ribs for my Sunday brunch.

Sauces on the table are Memphis-style sweet and tangy BBQ and Carolina-style BBQ which is less tomato and more vinegar and therefore hotter (and thinner). Knoxville is about halfway between the two styles geographically, so it's nice they offer both. Both sauces were good. I liked their Carolina sauce better.

Jay had the pulled pork sandwich and was very happy with the size of the meal for the modest price. About six bucks as I recall.

The sides were a weak point. The hushpuppies were overdone, the coleslaw was on the bland side, and the flat-sliced potatoes were completely overcooked. Corn on the cob - one of my favorites - is only available deep-fried, which is an abomination of nature. Granted I didn't taste it, but based on past experience with fried corn they could have thrown the ears on the smoker and gotten corn that was both tastier and healthier.

The place was not what anyone would call clean or snazzy. I expect authentic BBQ joints to be a little grungy, but Lucille's was a classy enough jazz dive and Sullivan's is a nice enough place, so it seems like Backroom BBQ's grunginess is a combination of overeager pseudo-authenticity and a general lack of cleanliness. I may have been a little sensitive because I had the kids with me, so judge for yourself. If you can deal with the hygiene standards at the usual run of BBQ joints you probably won't mind, and Backroom's 'cue is good and the price is right.

Tamara Shepherd's picture

Tiny kitchen to keep clean

Unless the restaurant's kitchen has been redesigned since Annie's/Lucille's, there isn't much there to be kept clean! That area is not more than 4' x 4'. Their digs may well be a bit worn, but I wouldn't particularly worry about cleanliness...

Rachel's picture

I still miss Annie's...

I still miss Annie's...

Mykhailo's picture

My theory has long been that

My theory has long been that the Piedmont is a wide bbq ecotone in NC, so you get some sort of crazy transitional sauce there, halfway between the tomatoey stuff from the mountains and the vinegary stuff from the coastal plain. But that's based a pretty small sample, so I could totally be wrong.

Tamara Shepherd's picture

Frank Snowden's smokers

The best BBQ I ever had in Knoxville was at Manhatten's. Remember, right after they opened, how Frank used to set those smokers out on the sidewalk? Yummmm.

(Used a clear, very spicy sauce. Wish I knew how to make it.)

WhitesCreek's picture

The best BBQ I ever had in

The best BBQ I ever had in Knoxville was...actually, now that I think about it, I haven't had any BBQ in Knoxville that would land on my "best" list.

However, as a serious researcher I am always willing to enter into a project if a worthy candidate could be found.

(metulj...What's with you and tomatoes? There's BBQ and there's sauces. In my religion, god don't care whether it's mustard based, like Maurice's, or a little heavy on the vinegar as long as it has a proper three day oldness about it)

Mykhailo's picture

In my religion, god don't

In my religion, god don't care whether it's mustard based

And that's why your religion is wrong.

Les Jones's picture

Oh! The Pain!

THE+PAIN.bmp

In deference to metulj some Carolina BBQ has a little tomato, and some has no tomato whatsoever.

www.lesjones.com

Mykhailo's picture

So are you going to kick the

So are you going to kick the mountains out of North Carolina?

WhitesCreek's picture

Yes...and No...

The Scotch-Irish are troublemakers. Cheap drunks too! :)

I'll have you know I prefer the finer corn likkers with my tomato based barbecue sauce. But I'll drink most things in a pinch. (Not lite beer however. I'll do without)

For Real on the bbq, I've taken to the rubs lately out here at the creek. No tomato or mustard involved. Kills most of the day cooking it and I tend to fall asleep early afterwards, but it's all worth it. I'm trying to talk a neighbor into growing me a pig. So much better than store bought.

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